Travel Etc: SLEEPOVER: A bed in Rio de Janeiro; Copacabana Palace
Independent, The (London), Jul 7, 2002 by David Usborne

Where is it?

On the seafront at Brazil's famous Copacabana Beach. A busy boulevard separates the hotel from the sand, but the pedestrian traffic offers hours of people-watching.

What's it like?

A bastion of calm and grand luxury in a sometimes crazy city. There is romance in its splendour but the place is hardly cosy. The atmosphere is formal, though not stiflingly so: this is Rio, after all, where even the Palace lets its hair down during Carnival.

What's its USP?

Its history. Completed in 1923, it has been a magnet to the world's rich and famous ever since. There is a photo gallery of notable guests on a landing above the lobby, from King Edward VII to Bono.

Service?

Impeccable, as you would expect. Staff members glide about the place in white dinner jackets looking after your every need. On the other hand, if there is an expensive way to do something, that is what they will recommend first. Don't take a hotel limo when a cab will do.

Rooms?

Orient-Express Hotels bought the Palace 12 years ago and has been refurbishing it ever since. You will stay either in the main, original building or the all-suite annexe tower (all with living room and balcony), built in the 1930s. Doubles start from pounds 206 per night. For the rarest of guests, there are six extravagant penthouse suites on the top floor of the main building, from pounds 612 per night, which share their own rooftop pool.

Food?

The ground floor of the annexe houses the hotel bar and one of Rio's priciest restaurants, the Cipriani. Frankly, its menu and clientele are intimidating. Another, far less formal restaurant, the Pergula, does a great buffet breakfast. Try the brunch there on Sundays. Otherwise, the city is stuffed with great and often cheap places to eat and drink.

Clientele?

The numbers of American businessmen have receded and the proportion of tourists has gone up. About one-third of the guests are likely to be Brazilians.

Things to do?

The Sugar Loaf Mountain via cable car and the legendary statue of Christ the Redeemer are both within an easy taxi ride. Try to explore Ipanema though, especially its craft fair on Sunday.

Address

Copacabana Palace, Avenue Atlantica, 1702, CEP 22021-001, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. (00 55 21 548 7070). Or contact Orient-Express Hotels (0800 181123; www.orient-express.com).